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Chanel - Retrograde Mysterieuse J12 | New watchesPress releaseOnce upon a time there was a round watch. Beautifully spherical, without side winding crown to spoil the perfection of the roundness.
Retrograde Mysterieuse J12
Chanel
In 2000, to produce a black watch, properly black, Chanel turned to ceramic, the only real hightech content capable of attaining this. It absolutely was logical for Chanel to put the dilemma of this round watch, perfectly round without crown, to one in the most imaginative teams in fantastic problems - the Giulio Papi team at APRP (Audemars Piguet Renaud Papi).An genuine finely-mechanical "complication" was essential if the J12's tenth anniversary was to become celebrated in fitting style: a means of marking a completely new stage in Chanel's profession with the heart of great watchmaking.The main J12 tourbillon was introduced in 2005. This was initial while in the history of watchmaking - combining a tourbillon that has a ceramic watch which also had a ceramic mainplate. Fake Swiss Vacheron Constantin Watch Swiss ETA 2824 Movement Diamond Bezel and Black Dial SWVC3865 Having acquired a flavor for this fine watchmaking, the J12 gave by itself a "manufacture" movement in 2008 (calibre 3125, made in partnership with Audemars Piguet with the impressive ceramic oscillating bodyweight).2010 - how you can devise a fantastic watchmaking J12 fully according to the layouts of your Home of Chanel? How you can transform this wish for any perfectly round intricate watch into fact? The way to marry Chanel tradition and Swiss micro-mechanical tradition? Guilio Papi, author of a lot of the most tasty neo-complications in recent times, took up the Chanel problem.Instant response - go the crown! Why don't you place it about the dial, a thing never tried using before? This promptly raised the issue on the fingers - how to make them transfer round the dial with this particular crown in the way? This consequently established a further problem - a raised crown about the watch. Why don't you a vertical retractable crown which would be all the more daring?Just because it is really never ever been tried using would not indicate it cannot be completed, specifically if the Chanel and Giulio Papi groups are working with each other. It had been hence needed to invent, in the tourbillon movement, a minute hand able not only of going within the dial but in addition across the crown right within the dial itself.To celebrate the J12's tenth anniversary, Chanel is supplying a very new watchmaking complication wherever specialized prowess bows to aesthetics...The one way - the return journey! Shift the minute hand forward till it butts up in opposition to the crown, then reverse it until it is positioned about the other facet in the crown. In such cases, if the hand moves forward then goes into reverse to choose up its travel, what takes place on the accuracy of your watch? How can it provide the time throughout this retrograde interval? Because the hand can now not indicate the minutes, figures - electronic exhibit - step in inside a magnifying aperture found between five o'clock and six o'clock, an ingenious notion which under no circumstances disturbs the speed with the hour hand.
The crown is put on the dial
Chanel
The title of the watch is starting to just take on indicating: Retrograde with the minute hand which reverses its vacation for ten minutes all through which, at each revolution of the dial, the hand returns to its posture less than the crown - i.e. amongst ten and twenty previous every single hour, using the moment counted in figures while in the magnifying aperture for the base of your dial - and Mysterieuse for that mysterious workings of the twin analog and electronic screen. It truly is a remarkably specialized and really aesthetically-pleasing watch complication.Simple to plot but potentially not so very simple to create! Each of the a lot more so as this sequentially retrograded hand, duplicated by a digital display screen of minutes, is an absolute first in watchmaking background. Just like the vertical crown constructed in the dial, which is deactivated by pressing it flush with all the crystal or activated by finger force to "release" and manipulate it.To summarise, what comes about every hour??For the initially 10 minutes, hours and minutes are examine extremely usually inside the middle with the watch.?Within the tenth moment of the hour (i.e. at two o'clock on the dial), the moment hand reverses its rotation and turns anti-clockwise. It is thus transferring backwards and will acquire 10 minutes to return to its regular situation with the twentieth moment (4 o'clock over the dial). For this counter revolution of 300 (fifty min. x 6/min.), it "regresses" within the price of five minutes of dial each and every moment.?Throughout these 10 minutes of retrogradation, each and every moment passed is usually go through with a disc engraved 11 to 19 inside a magnifying aperture. This electronic disc only moves slowly but surely in the course of this interval of relocating backwards. It remains in neutral (no figures) during the fifty minutes on the normal rotation with the minute hand.?Right after the 10 minutes of shifting backwards, reading through the time returns to ordinary. ?This transferring backwards of your hand - a "sliding" reversal in its amount - has no adverse outcome about the precision with the watch, compared with the normal program of retrograde palms, which requires coiling a spring and so an extreme usage of ability.?At 11 o'clock, a power reserve for every hand implies the functioning time for your movement until finally it's subsequent wound manually (the movement is designed to function for ten days, at the time two parallel barrels are thoroughly wound).
A round watch. Perfectly spherical, with no aspect winding crown to spoil the perfection of the roundness.
Chanel
And what other mechanical subtleties are still hidden in J12 Retrograde Mysterieuse? ?The vertical crown must be pressed to really make it usable - it can be generally reduced in stand-by placement (features disconnected). It then rises outside of its housing.?To established time the right way, a vertical ceramic push-piece hid within the bezel decoration is pressed: found at 2 o'clock, this push-piece is applied to move the palms forward to set the hour along with the minutes (like individuals in between ten and 20, with the accelerated retrogradation speed). The push-piece at four o'clock is pressed to disconnect this time location functionality.?To transfer to winding manner, the procedure is activated by urgent the vertical push-piece at four o'clock: the crown is turned to wind the motion. Fifty turns are necessary to wind both of those barrels thoroughly. This may be checked over the energy reserve.?To deactivate the vertical crown, it can be pressed back into its housing exactly where it stays blocked until finally up coming expected.?Never pass up the monolithic bridges as well as ceramic mainplate, with its exceptional structure about the again in the watch. longines price Guilio Papi's crew has received its wager. This J12 Retrograde Mysterieuse isn't just a piece which respects the Chanel design and values, it is also a very difficult watch, both mechanically - it's the 1st time that this style of retrograde hand continues to be attempted - and aesthetically. It will involve a triple complication inside the strictest sense in the term - tourbillon, retrograde minute and clutchable crown. This mix is really a earth first, worthy of entry in watchmaking annals.The scale of your case (47 mm) pretty evidently intends this impressive tourbillon to get a masculine viewers, but without ignoring the "couture" subtleties of Chanel style and design: consideration to the slightest detail, worry for your line, the flavor for remaining "spot on", the rejection of easiness.With a new discovering curve for that watchmaking crew working on this J12 Retrograde Mysterieuse - tactility, a wholly new exploration subject for watchmaking, which has never right before utilised the tactile technique or sensory perception (other than visible) in its watches.Chanel needed an entire re-think in the complication for its tenth anniversary with its possess eyesight of mechanical watchmaking and watch aesthetics. Not rather breaking with custom, the J12 Retrograde Mysterieuse opens up a whole new viewpoint on perpetually modern watches.J12 Retrograde Mysterieuse: performance (see pdf doc)J12 ReTROGRADE MYSTeRIEUSELimited and numbered version to ten parts
Confined version of 10 numbered parts in 18 carat white gold
Chanel
Scenario: 47 mm in diameter in high-tech* black ceramicBezel: 18 carat gold, twelve high-tech* ceramic inserts.The inserts at two o'clock and four o'clock activate thecrown functionsCrystal: Colourless, dual-face crystal with anti-reflectivecoatingHands Omega De Ville : Pierced skeletons in 18 carat goldCaseback: eighteen carat gold with colourless, dual-face sapphirecrystal with anti-reflective coatingMovement: CHANEL Calibre RMT-10, made exclusively forChanel by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA)Crown: Polished, circular-grained steel. "Clou de Paris"pattern in eighteen carat gold, capped by high-tech*black ceramicStrap: forty six hinged inbound links in high-tech* black ceramicClasp: CHANEL-patented three-part folding buckle in 18carat goldWater resistance: thirty metresSeries: Confined edition of ten numbered items in eighteen carat white goldJ12 ReTROGRADE MYSTeRIEUSELimited and numbered edition to ten pieces
Restricted edition of 10 numbered pieces in 18 carat pink gold
Chanel
Circumstance: 47 mm in diameter in high-tech* white ceramicBezel: 18 carat gold, twelve high-tech* ceramic inserts. The inserts at two o'clock and 4 o'clock activate the crown functionsCrystal: Colourless, dual-face crystal with anti-reflective coatingHands: Pierced skeletons in 18 carat goldCaseback: 18 carat gold with colourless, dual-face sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coatingMovement: CHANEL Calibre RMT-10, developed exclusivelyfor Chanel by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA)Crown: Polished, circular-grained metal. "Clou de Paris"pattern in 18 carat gold, capped by high-tech*white ceramicStrap: 46 hinged links in high-tech* white ceramicClasp: CHANEL-patented three-part folding buckle in18 carat goldWater resistance: thirty metresSeries: Limited version of ten numbered parts in eighteen carat pink goldJ12 ReTROGRADE MYSTeRIEUSELimited and numbered edition to at least one piece
Confined version of 1 numbered piece in eighteen carat white gold
Chanel
Case: forty seven mm in diameter in high-tech* white ceramicBezel: eighteen carat gold, twelve high-tech* ceramicinserts. The inserts at two o'clock and 4 o'clockactivate the crown functionsCrystal: Colourless, dual-face crystal with anti-reflectivecoatingHands: Pierced skeletons in 18 carat goldCaseback: 18 carat gold with colourless, dual-facesapphire crystal with anti-reflective coatingMovement: CHANEL Calibre RMT-10, created exclusivelyfor Chanel by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA)Crown: Polished, circular-grained steel. "Clou de Paris"pattern in eighteen carat gold, capped by high-tech*white ceramicStrap: omega replica forty six hinged hyperlinks in high-tech* white ceramicClasp: CHANEL-patented three-part folding buckle in18 carat goldWater resistance: 30 metresSeries: Constrained edition of 1 numbered piece in eighteen carat white gold